Surfers’ delight
February 7th, 2010Not a soul out. Seagulls are racing the waves. Sun has not come over the dunes yet. Their wet suits next to them, eyes on the ocean, they sip in their morning coffee slowly, not saying a word. A fisherman by the shore, a clay pipe un his mouth, looks out for fish, his giant cane set firmly into the soft sand.
Boards waxed, wet suits on, they walk in. Small waves, but they don’t really care. Being out there in the swell, paddling out west, listening to the wind, the sound of the waves on the rocks, the nothingness of the open waters. Finally the first rays of sunlight pop from behind the dunes, covering them in orange. Riding the first waves, they realize that they’re not alone. A couple of surfers paddle out towards them. The fisherman is walking back towards his car. 8 a.m. Ocean Beach. February. Water freezing, wind blowing, sun is shining. No loud speakers, no crowded towels on the sand, no sunblock smell, empty car park.
10 a.m. They walk out to their bags. The boards are sticky with salt and wax and sand miwed together into a hard shell. They take off their suits, shivering in the winter air for a good five minutes. Still not a word. Their bicycles ready, holding their boards under one arm and driving with the other, they ride back home. Black suits white shirts black ties, they sit at their desk half an hour later, looking like anyone. But in their mind the only sound, the only memory is of a wave, silent and blue, curled like the body of a woman, foamy like a good beer, and their board sliding, silently, effortlessly. Winter session, surfers’ delight.